GigaBlue and Sony Projector Not Playing.

[CRMS]

This is a bit of a shaggy story about my AV system and I am not sure if it is an OpenVix issue or GigaBlue issue but for now I've posted just in this section.

I have 4 source boxes connected to Audio Visual Receiver - a Marantz NR1711 2020 with a single output which then goes through a Wyrestorm H2 splitter:

http://www.habitech.co.uk/Price+List...-H2.htm#rtabs3

The Wyrestorm has 4 indication lights. Red for the 5v external power source. Blue for the HDMI input from the AVR. And Blue for each HDMI output.

and then to Sony VPL-VW590ES PJ 2020 or TV - I have tried a Toshiba 32" HD 2013, Samsung 28" HD 2014 and LG 32" HD 2020. The reason for using the splitter is 2 fold. To downscale a 4K signal from GigaBlue and 4K Blu-ray to 1080p and to prevent needing to plug and unplug equipement - which is bad for the plugs and can damage kit through static electricity etc.

4 source boxes are Sony RDR-HXD770 Freeview Recorder/DVD player 2007, Panasonic 4K Blu-ray player couple of years old, Humax Foxsat HDR HD satellite recorder 2008 and GigaBlue UHD 4K satellite receiver 2020 - running OpenVix software.

HDMI CEC is switched off on everything, except the Sony PJ which doesn't have a setting. The GigaBlue has a complicated HDMI CEC menu if enabled, and there may be a setting in there that will solve the issue. It is disabled. I've also used a CEC disabling adapter lead and it doesn't make any difference to the results.

I have also checked the EDID files on each device. All accurately reflect when the equipment came into service. Except 1 item. The Sony 590ES which only went on sale a month or so ago. Its EDID is dated 2013. So not inspiring that the Sony EDID information is actually correct?? An experienced contributor has suggested on www.avforums.com
that it is an EDID issue.

From standby, a warm start, everything works correctly. But my system doesn't stay in standby - checked with a power meter and actually draws quite a few watts. So wasting wigglies and during the day switched off.

From total power off, cold start, it gets interesting. All boxes work correctly except the GigaBlue in 2160p and 1080p. On start up the GigaBlue displays the 1 or 2 start up "splash screens" at 1920 x 1080p on its internal small screen and on the TV - the "GigaBlue" screen and then the "OpenVix" screen. Then when the TV picture appears on the GigaBlue internal display, all TVs just display "no signal". Unplug and replug the Sony PJ HDMI at the PJ, and the picture appears. If the GigaBlue is set to its lowest setting of 1080i, then I get a picture. If set to 2160p I don't. The Wyrestorm H2 downscales to 1080p for the TVs.

So I think there is a conflict between the GigaBlue 2160p and Sony PJ. I think the issue is an HDCP issue between the GigaBlue and Sony PJ. And I have found 2 possible issues with the Sony:

1. From a cold start the Wyrestorm H2 blue indicator for the Sony PJ output comes on instantly - even with the Sony fully powered off/unplugged - and well before the TV output blue indicator, which only comes on when the TV goes into standby. I do not think this handshake should be happening with the projector fully unpowered??
When the system is up and running, unplugging the PJ HDMI lead the H2 blue indicator goes out. Replugging, and the H2 blue output indicator stays out and the TV picture appears. It doesn't reappear when the HDMI plug is put back in. Only at the next cold start.

2. The Sony PJ EDID also seems to be well out of date with a date of 2013 - as posted earlier. I attach the EDID for the Marantz and Sony PJ for a comparison??

So, I think the Sony is completing a circuit somewhere when power is put on the AV system even if the PJ is unplugged. The HDMI plug has, I believe, 5v power on pin 18. The CEC also has 3.3v on pin 13, but that is disabled by the CEC disable cable. And, I think this early circuit in the Sony is blocking the GigaBlue when it is in HD. I don't know what HDCP the GigaBlue is?? The Sony PJ, Wyrestorm H2 and Panasonic Blu-ray are all HDCP 2.2.

Any ideas would be really useful.

Sony590ESEDID.jpg

MarantzAVREDID.jpg

[twol]

Um! I have a similar setup in my lounge for the inputs, in that I have 2 sat receivers (Giga UHD 4k & sf8008), media player (Dune), CD player (what are they?!), Apple TV and Sonos going through an Onkyo amp/receiver which is very similar to your Marantz (don't have 8K) and then out to originally Panny plasma and now LG Oled - no issues. So as described input kind of similar, but my (single) output is fine ... and I don't involve HDCP, but I would guess that it has to do with the hdmi splitter - I have used several with my other systems (see my signature all linked to another Onkyo ) and have never had any satisfactory outputs. Some I have thrown in the bin immediately, some with manual switching I have kept for a short while, but basically I reconfigured so that I didn't have to use a splitter - basically I changed my 4K Monitor which now has 4 hdmi inputs, dvi and displayport.
I wouldn't trust these splitters as far as I could throw them.

[CRMS]

Thanks. I'm suspicious of the Sony PJ doing a handshake with something even though it is switched off/unplugged!! And the fact its EDID is 7 years out of date - 2013 instead of 2020!! The TVs only handshake when they are in stand by.

[ronand]

I'm suspicious of anything Sony after a bad experience with a TV and bluray player that regularly caused each other to crash (almost daily). Sony were in denial which wasn't very helpful. After I relegated the tv to the shed I haven't had any issues since. I now have HDMI CEC working reliably except with my lg 4k bluray which causes needless screen mode switching so I taped over the HDMI CEC pin in the cable to sort that. The only think Sony left in the house is a PS4. Generally speaking I find HDMI more reliable if CEC is enabled (and more convenient) but switches/splitters are known to cause problems.

[JonMMM]

Have you tried connecting the PJ directly to the amp bypassing the HDMI switch to see if thats the issue?

[CRMS]

The problems are not with the PJ, which happily accepts anything thrown at it from the AVR or any other source.

After a few hours trying every combination I am sure it is an HDCP or CEC/Control conflict between the Sony PJ and GigaBlue which is preventing the Wyrestorm H2 HDMI splitter downscaling the 4K output from the GigaBlue.
But this only happens if the Sony PJ has an HDMI lead to the splitter in either of the 2 HDMI ports. Without an HDMI lead plugged into the Sony, the Wyrestorm H2 downscales perfectly.
It also does it perfectly from a Panasonic 4K Blu-ray and even if the Sony is connected by HDMI lead.
The Sony PJ, the Blu-ray and Marantz are all at least HDCP 2.2. I don't know what HDCP the GigaBlue is.
The Sony is connecting /handshaking with something as soon as the H2 gets 5v power even if off and unplugged. This does not happen with the TVs. I think it is this early handshake that is causing the issue with the GigaBlue.

[twol]

There are so few 2160 channels, so why don‘t you just let the GigaBlue send 1080 - or does the problem still exist? The Gigable has been around for over 3 years, so HDCP is not going to be bleeding edge.

[CRMS]

All works fine at 1080p. But the splitter I bought was sold on the basis of all singing all dancing and cope with everything. Well it can't and it doesn't even have a port for firmware updates. It is little better than manual plugging and unplugging - which is not a good idea.
On the avforum, the HDFury have been highly recommended as they are programmable to deal with HDCP/CEC/HDMI and EDID issues. So bite the £200 bullet instead of £85 and get one of those?? Small change compared to PJ cost.

[JonMMM]

All works fine at 1080p. But the splitter I bought was sold on the basis of all singing all dancing and cope with everything. Well it can't and it doesn't even have a port for firmware updates. It is little better than manual plugging and unplugging - which is not a good idea.
On the avforum, the HDFury have been highly recommended as they are programmable to deal with HDCP/CEC/HDMI and EDID issues. So bite the £200 bullet instead of £85 and get one of those?? Small change compared to PJ cost.

I am guessing the issue is the splitter, try all connections with out it

[twol]

All works fine at 1080p. But the splitter I bought was sold on the basis of all singing all dancing and cope with everything. Well it can't and it doesn't even have a port for firmware updates. It is little better than manual plugging and unplugging - which is not a good idea.
On the avforum, the HDFury have been highly recommended as they are programmable to deal with HDCP/CEC/HDMI and EDID issues. So bite the £200 bullet instead of £85 and get one of those?? Small change compared to PJ cost.

Go for it - would be interested in the results

[CRMS]

I am guessing the issue is the splitter, try all connections with out it

I don't think it is the splitter on its own. Only when buggered up by the Sony PJ handshaking with something when switched off. That is worrying when an item of kit has a live working circuit inside it when unplugged from the wall. Only needs for something to fail and a fire perhaps. Not good.
The splitter on its own is fine. Would be interesting to try with a JVC 4K projector, but I don't have another £8.5k to spare����