Is there anyway to reset Technomate motor through OpenVIX without going up a ladder?

[aido]

Hi,

Is there anyway to reset a Technomate motor without going up a ladder please?

I've been looking around and see screenshots of the older non E2 Technomate receivers which seemed they could do it, but is there a way to reset the motor from OpenVIX please?

Basically mine seems stuck on 28.2 (lucky as otherwise the wife would kick off).

The motor shows a green light and flashes orange when you try and move it within OpenVIX but it doesn't physically move. It's set up as USALS with all the co-ordinates as they used to be when it worked fine.

I had a coming together with a train at the backend of last year so still not able to get up the ladder to do a physical reset, so wondered if there was anything else I could do remotely please or whether it's just stuck as is until the physical reset is attempted.

I've seen posts saying it could be a loose cable etc, I'm just wondering if there's anything I can do from this end while I can't get up the side of the house.

With thanks in advance!

[aido]

I've tried various things today including trying the motor with another box (Technomate Nano SE M2 running OpenATV) but it still doesn't move the motor.

I've tried going into the positioner setup settings and ensuring the limits were all cleared but still no motor movement.

I've messaged TM to see if they have any ideas before I get someone to go up a ladder to have a nosey.

I've attached a log - you can see that it's sending the diseqc commands when I try and drive it via signal finder but then realises it's still on 28.2e.

Any ideas appreciated please - I've ensured the connections are tight on the box and used a spanner to ensure a good connection etc.

Is there anything else I can try from the box end please? Thanks in advance!

Enigma2_debug_2018-04-12_16-13-55.log

[bellejt]

maybe use disecq 1.2 to move and reset motor

[aido]

Thanks - how would I actually do that please?

Is that the bit within positioner setup under tuner config?

[bellejt]

yes instead of usals use disecq.Cannot test myself cause in recording

[Sicilian]

Aido, do you have an old Technomate non Linux box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[aido]

Unfortunately not but I've got to admit I'm tempted to try one from eBay - do you think they'd be potentially able to help please Sicilian?

[Sicilian]

Unfortunately not but I've got to admit I'm tempted to try one from eBay - do you think they'd be potentially able to help please Sicilian?

I had a similar issue once and reset the motoro using a TM-5402. If a TM-5400 series can't move the motor back to Zero and reset then I'd say the motor or coax knackered.

Have you tried re flashing fresh and setting up new? Checked coax connections etc where you can?

[aido]

Thank-you - I'll give it a punt in that case

I have tried a fresh flash and even another box entirely so the latest OpenVix versions on the LX3 and then the latest OpenATV on the Technomate Nano SE M2 I've got here.

I did notice when I went back to the default skin the positioner settings initially showed a crazy current location which wasn't visible in the skin I was using, but once I went into the tune and focus and picked 28.2e it seemed to sort itself out display wise and I haven't seen that happen again since.

I've taken a punt on a V8 Finder from Amazon which should come today to see if that does anything either -I think you're right in that it's going to be something physical up the ladder.

For the connections to the boxes they've got the screw on F connectors currently which seem fine, silly question but from watching YT videos I've seen some people don't have any excess cable past the end of the F connector - is best practice to have some of the core going past the end of the F connector or should it be flush please?

I did notice last night when hanging out the window that when you try and move the disk you can hear two clicks from the motor, sort of like a relay going on and then off again but no other noise. There's no noise as though the cogs are moving and broken etc.

I'd not noticed it before with traffic noise etc in the day.

[aido]

Just updating this one as still haven't got mine sorted yet - I am getting to the point I'm going to say f*ck it and go up the ladder but my knee has given way three times this week so probably not a good idea risking that 12m up

Bizarrely the parents setup started playing up too but had the opposite problem to us and luckily access to theirs was easy so it could be sorted.

We're locked on 28.2e with no movement whereas they could move the dish but had no picture.

In their case it seemed to be a problem with the F connector as removing the cable, cutting the end off and sticking on a new F connector has got theirs working.

The V8 Finder i bought won't move my TM-2300 and I also picked up a used Technomate TM-6800HD receiver from eBay but same problem. They're an old box but it does have a great pic!

I did however buy a used Stab HH90 motor from eBay to have a play with and sure enough that moves as expected with everything.

It's overkill but I'm thinking about buying a HH100 or 120 now as it would seem they're easier to install what with the arm for the dish facing upwards.

Have any of you tried sticking a motor on a tripod? I'm debating whether to have a play that way for now.

I'm also trying some local installers to just come out and reterminate all the LNB and motor connections.

I've bought a compression tool to redo all the internal connections as well but after having a play I'm not entirely convinced it's any different to a good screw on but it could be poor quality connections that came with the tool.

[aido]

Updating this one in case anyone else ever has the same problem - someone has just been around and checked the TM-2300 motor and it's as dead as a post.

They reset via the reset switch and it still won't drive via the buttons on the motor and trying via my box gave the same outcome with it just flashing the orange light on the motor.

I've just bought a new Stab HH-120 as the one on eBay it turned out was 14 years old (still works though!) and they're coming back to fit next week

[Sicilian]

I'd be inclined to install a new Technomate TM-2600 motor than an old Stab 120 thats 14 years old. I've been using Tm-2600 motors for for 6-8 years, both running perfect.

[aido]

Sorry mate I meant I've bought what was supposed to be a lightly used HH-90 (which turned out to be made 14 years ago) and bought a brand spanking new HH-120 which is due this week which will be going up

Massively overkill but hopefully it should give me years of service.

The TM-2600 is working fine at the folks place but I'm just a bit wary with this TM-2300 failing in just 12 months of use.

When the guy has it down I'll have more of a play and crack it open to see what it looks like inside to see if it's obvious why it died.

[aido]

OK I'm just following this one up as I've had an hour to crack the old TM-2300 M3 open to try and figure out what went wrong now it's all been taken down and figured I'd document it in case it happens to anyone else in the future (as this thread comes up high up in Google results for Technomate motor problems)

I cracked it open and you could feel the relays clicking but nothing else was happening other than the green light flashing orange whenever it tried to move.

My first thought was that it was a capacitor fault as the one right above the movement switch looked dirty but saying that on second thought that doesn't actually seem to be a capacitor and is labelled L on the PCB instead of C like the other caps.

As it was broken and out of warranty I had nothing to lose so I removed the 7 pin white and blue ribbon cable between the main white PCB labelled SG2100C-R and the little green PCB HS2100-R.

The TM-2300 showed the exact same symptoms in that the relays would click and the light flicker even with the motor totally disconnected - as I started reattaching the cable there was a small amount of movement (the first the motor has shown since April 2017!!)

After removing and reseating the cable a couple of times it seems to have sprung back into life and the motor is now working as expected again. The angles seemed way off but Goto 0 went to 0 as expected so I did a physical reset of the motor via the reset button and it seems to be moving as expected when controlled by an e2 box.

There are some pics below - hopefully this will help someone else one day - I'd tried everything possible from the box end, various builds, boxes, you name it, and after all that it turned out to be the motor getting confused about something and needing the daughter board disconnecting!!

Someone is coming to fit all the new kit tomorrow so fingers crossed it all works - all is well that ends well as I've managed to blag an entire new setup three weeks before the new arrival so I should have plenty of time to place (famous last words!!)

20180612_173247.jpg
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20180612_173324.jpg

[dpullen87]

I had a similar issue once and reset the motoro using a TM-5402. If a TM-5400 series can't move the motor back to Zero and reset then I'd say the motor or coax knackered.

Have you tried re flashing fresh and setting up new? Checked coax connections etc where you can?

I have a similar issue where my 2600 motor won't move but I can see a green light on the motor when looking up at the disk.

I saw your post and I'm thinking of buying a TM-5402 from Amazon to try and clear the fault as you suggested, if I ordered where would I go to try and clear?

Cheers,